Continuing our yearly tradition of a weekend away together, my bestie Kim and I just got back from a long weekend in Prague. I knew fairly little about Prague beforehand, but really enjoyed exploring. It’s the perfect location for a long weekend, full of charm, muted beauty, cobbles and bridges. It’s also very walkable which makes getting around easy (and cheap). Let’s begin!
Fun facts about Prague
- They liked throwing people out of windows… Prague is the home of defenestration, which is a fancy word for throwing people out of windows. It happened twice in Czech history — once in 1419 and again in 1618 — and both times started major wars.
- The first tulips in Europe weren’t from the Netherlands… they came from Prague! They bloomed in the Castle Gardens in the 1500s after bulbs were gifted to the city by a Turkish Sultan.
- Mozart, Einstein and Kafka all frequented Prague… Mozart adored the city — he said they “got” his music more than the Viennese did, and he even premiered Don Giovanni here. Einstein lectured at the university, played violin at dinner parties, and lingered in local cafés. Kafka, however, called Prague “a little mother with claws,” perfectly encapsulating his attachment to and frustration with the city.
- Prague Castle is the oldest medieval castle still in use… and it’s not just a simple castle either. It feels more like a whole village of palaces, buildings and cathedrals. Of the five (!) cathedrals that the castle has, St Vitus is the largest and is adorned with a completely mismatched roof. This is down to the fact that they took over 600 years to complete it and architectural styles changed considerably during that time.
- The Czechs drink more beer per capita than anywhere else in the world… as neither of us are beer drinkers, this is a side of Prague that we didn’t indulge in, but I can confirm the beer was cheap, and clearly the favoured drink. (A plate of grilled veg was a similar price to water, and both were more expensive than a pint of beer…)
Accommodation
We stayed at Hotel Roma in Prague 1, the most central and touristy part of the city. It’s in Malá Strana which is full of charming cobblestone streets and a 10 minute walk from Prague’s famous Charles Bridge. It was quiet, clean, had a yummy breakfast and was an excellent location for seeing all the main sights on foot, away from the hustle and bustle of the Old Town Square. There is a city tax of CZK 50 per person per night, paid on arrival.
Transport
Prague has one of the oldest tram networks in the world, and it’s still impressively cheap, reliable and easy to use (only 30 CZK — about £1 — for 30 minutes). We enjoyed our ride on the historic Tram number 42 round the city too. I’d actually recommend it over the hop-on, hop-off bus as it feels more authentic, and you get 20% off climbing one of the many towers in the centre as a bonus.
We used the Airport Express between the city and the airport. It goes from the main train station (once you’ve found it up several escalators and out the back!).
What we loved doing
Walking, walking, and more walking! We walked to Charles Bridge on our first night and it was abolsutely stunning to see it lit up, with the view towards the castle and cathedral behind (tip: spot the bridges from the plane if it’s a clear day). The next morning we made our way to the Old Town Square for the obligatory activity of any city break — the free walking tour around the main sights.
The Story of Prague is a really cool interative museum that I’d recommend doing on your first day in Prague. Prague didn’t have many information boards, or tourist information in general, so this museum provides a great overview of the city’s history (from its medieval beginnings, to Nazism in WW2, to the rise and fall of communism and the subsequent wild 90s), plus it recommends key things to do and see.
I’d heard that the Astronomical Clock was really disappointing, but I actually really enjoyed it. It’s one of the oldest astronomical clocks still in operation, showing not just the time and date but also the sun, moon, zodiac signs, and Christian holidays — all ticking away on a 15th-century mechanism that was broken for nearly 150 years. The hourly show is short (a skeleton rings a bell, little apostles parade past the windows, and a rooster crows) but there’s something charmingly eerie about it. Even better, though, was climbing the tower and watching the crowd below watching the clock.
Petřín Tower and Mirror Maze in Petřín park were some of my favourite attractions in Prague. The tower was built as a loose replica of the Eiffel Tower, and its peak is at the same altitude as the real thing (but, as our tour guide put it, when you’re on a budget you just stick a smaller tower on a hill). The views from the top were fantastic, and as a bonus it was much cheaper if you opted to climb the stairs instead. There were also fantastic hidden views throughout the park.
Views from both Castle and its Golden Lane and the Strahov Monastery. Viewpoints within the castle were great, and if you wait till after 5pm then you can walk down the Golden Lane for free. We didn’t pay to go inside the castle, and to be honest I don’t think you need to as you see so much just walking around the grounds (it’s more like a conglomerate of palaces and stately buildings).
Classical music at the Cathedral of St. Clement. We walked past a couple of guys selling tickets for this and managed to haggle down a reduced price. The concert was lovely, but even more beautiful was the stunning cathedral.
Wallenstein Gardens are really hidden away in a very central location near major tram stops. There was a war photography exhibition on when we went which was harrowing but worth seeing, especially as it covered conflicts right up to the present day.
Where we ate
Pork’s restaurant: We passed Pork’s by accident on our way to see the Charles Bridge on our first night. Apparently it usually has a huge queue, but we managed to go straight in as it was nearly their closing time. We had a delicious Schnitzel and potato salad, with a goat’s cheese salad to start. Would highly recommend!
La Cantina mexican restaurant: Just a few minutes away from our hotel, this Mexican was absolutely delicious (and busy all evening too, so definitely book in advance). Top tip: it’s cash only so bring some with you (although there was a small ATM in the restaurant).
Pivovarský dům Benedict: About as traditional as it gets. This restaurant was within Prague 2, so we got to see beyond Prague’s touristy centre on the walk out (and tram back). I had a traditional chicken broth with a liver dumpling, followed by beef goulash.
Czech Slovak Restaurant: We stumbled across this as it was between our hotel and the nearest tram stop, and the food (another goat’s cheese salad and potato pancakes) was absolutely delicious! Definitely one to try if you want to do beer/wine tasting with the food too.
Chimney cake (dough wrapped around a cone and baked on an open fire, then covered in sugar and filled with cream and chocolate) is a street dessert sold everywhere in the Old Town. We tried a free sample and our verdict was that it was sort of like a cinnamon scroll, but not as nice as all the other food in Prague.
Statues and sculptures
Nearly every building in the Old Town seemed to have some kind of statue on it. So much so that I got used to seeing them everywhere and didn’t take any photos of them. There were a few quirky things and arty installations that stood out though…
The John Lennon Wall — after Lennon’s death, a young Czech artist painted a tribute to him on a wall. Over time, others added song lyrics and messages of peace, and it gradually became a colourful symbol of hope, rebellion, and artistic expression.
Yellow Penguins — there’s a line of glowing yellow penguins standing beside the river in the Kampa Park. Apparently they’re made from recycled plastic to highlight environmental issues.
Hanging Man — I’d heard about hanging man from a friend and good job too, as if I hadn’t known where to look there’s no way I would’ve seen him! I was referring to him as hanging man, but apparently it’s Man hanging out — big difference there. It’s a sculpture by Czech artist David Černý and depicts Sigmund Freud’s existential anxiety, as he dangles by one hand and considers whether to let go.
Narrow Street — Vinarna Čertovka is a street so narrow that it has its own traffic light. It’s just 50cm wide, so impossible to pass other people, hence the traffic light system that was installed.
In summary…
Prague is a fantastic place to visit, rich in history, full of beautiful architecture and hidden places to explore. I loved how old and atmospheric it felt, but also how much greenery there was. It’s the kind of city that rewards wandering, and perfect for arriving with a loose plan that evolves as you go.
© Thank you and credit goes to Kim for being the best travel buddy and for taking wonderful photos!
Laura writes... 